Tuesday, June 8, 2010

DIY Hair Color - A Do Or A Don't


I have been coloring hair for 20 years. No haircuts, no blowdries, just hair color. I have done every color on my clients from platinum blonde to pink to natural, beautiful highlights. I love them all. My favorite color to do is "fix me" color. I get a twinkle in my eye whenever one of these walks through the door.

Clients tell me all the time that at some point in their lives they did their own hair color. Usually the outcome was not good. I have only done my own color twice and I'm a professional! Even for me, it's hard to do color on my own head.

The first time I tried to put highlights through the top of my head was a mini disaster. My foils were loose so the color bled out onto my scalp and turned brassy yellow, not pretty. Did I mention it was New Year's Eve? The second attempt was about 6 years later. This time I was only doing one color on my entire head so I thought - no big deal. Did I mention I was using bleach? My hair was short and I couldn't tell that I was overlapping the color . A few days later I realized I hadn't done such a great job. My hair had broken as short as a 5:00 shadow! So, when someone asks me about Do It Yourself hair color I say don't do it.

Having said that, I know there are reasons some choose to color their own hair. Here are a few suggestions on how to DIY while avoiding mini disasters.

1. Assess the condition of your hair. Damaged hair leaves no room for error.

2. Determine your natural hair color. This is one of the biggest mistakes people make. (you are probably      not still blonde like you were as a kid, just saying) Go to a beauty supply store and pick up  hair swatches. Separate your hair and hold the swatch next to it to determine a good match.

3. Determine your desired end result. This should only be 1-2 levels (max) lighter than your natural color. Any more and you could be dealing with a mini disaster.

4. When applying hair color as a touch-up, only apply to roots. Never pull color through your ends. This should be left to a professional. Dark colors that are pulled through can leave hair looking flat and shoe-polishey. Blonde colors can cause major breakage.

5. Highlighting kits are o.k. but still only lighten a couple shades lighter. Start with just a few through the top. If results are good, you can always add more.

6. Whenever possible have a friend apply color for you to ensure even applications.

7. Never DIY when mad, sad, in a hurry or on the night before a big event.

For those of you who are not into DIY but need a break on the old budget sometimes, there are some options. I have clients who like to come in for mini touch-ups to help them stretch out their color. Check with your hair colorist to see what type of mini services they offer. A few highlights around the face and through the part can help you get by an extra 4-6 weeks. A mini tint, applying color in those same areas can get you by an extra 2-3 weeks. For in-between grey touch-ups try ColorMark.

Remember, for any major hair color change, please see a professional. You don't want the hair color of your dreams to turn into "fix me" color. Once your hair is colored you need to use specific shampoos and conditioners for color treated hair. Colored hair is sensitized and can be dry. Davines has a fantastic line of hair care products for all types of colored hair.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Go With Your Own Glow or Mystic?

So now we all know how harmful and aging the sun's rays are. We know that using sunscreen with an SPF of 15 is the least we should use. We know the sun is most harmful between 10 am and 4 pm. We also know that no sunscreen is totally waterproof.

SkinCancer.org is promoting a campaign called Go With Your Own Glow. The campaign was developed to encourage women to love and protect their skin whatever its natural hue. "A healthy glow is your skin tone glowing. You -- looking luminous." - Sarah Brown/Vogue

With that being said, why is it when we look down at our legs shooting out from underneath our mini dress we wish our legs didn't look so pale. I am guilty of this very thought. I want the best of both worlds, perfect, healthy skin and a golden glow. I am guilty of going to the beach and loading up on sunscreen on every inch of my body, except my legs.

Finally, after all these years I decided it is time to get out of the tanning bed and try the Mystic tan. I think I might be one of the last people on earth who has not tried it. I have always been afraid the Mystic would leave me with streaks and orange knees and hands and I didn't know if I could go around all day without showering and smelling a little funky. I did  a little research on local tanning spas that have Mystic and chose BareTan in Irvine because they open at 6 am. I vowed to myself that I would follow all rules and guidelines to achieve the best results which included applying lotion heavily to my hands and feet, wearing a shower cap over my hair, and doing the Mystic 2-3 times in the first week. I also wore a shower cap over my face because I am  very particular about what goes on my face. I also put a shower cap over each foot for extra protection against orange foot.

The night before my first Mystic I showered, shaved my legs and exfoliated my entire body with La Compagnie de Provence Olive body scrub. I arrived at the tanning spa and followed tanning procedures with the lotion and shower caps. I have to admit I was totally startled when the spraying started then began laughing at the thought of what this must look like. I jumped out of the machine as soon as it stopped spraying and started wiping the product off to prevent drip marks. I thought, that wasn't so bad and it was very quick. I waited until the next morning to shower ( I know, gross) and looked over my new tan. Hmm, not bad.

I did this exactly as the first time, two more times. I did the Mystic 3 times in a 6 day period. Each time I thought the color looked pretty good. I never was streaky and the color was believable, not orange. One problem,  I don't think the color lasts long enough. Today is 6 days since my last Mystic and I don't feel like I have much color left at all. I would do a Mystic tan again. I think it is very temporary so I would do it twice within four days of an important event. Check out these before and after pictures of my legs. The pictures don't do the Mystic justice. I think my camera flash made the tan seem lighter than it really was. Overall, a good safe alternative to tanning.