To Be Or Not Be -- Sulfate-Free -- That Is The Question

The buzz words in the hairdressing industry for 2009 were Brazilian Blowout and Sulfate-Free Shampoo. More and more manufacturers of hair care products are focusing on sulfates. Hair care companies are creating sulfate-free shampoos and informing the public that sulfates are bad for their hair. They claim that sulfates cause color fadage, reverse the effects of Brazilian Blowouts and other keratin straightners and degrade the bonds on hair extensions. Then, these same companies instruct clients to use THEIR products to reduce these effects.

By making claims and offering a solution, the companies are creating their own "niche" in the beauty industry. Recently, L'oreal began advertising sulfate-free shampoo to consumers to buy at drugstores. No surprise since L'oreal bought Pureology who was the beauty industry leader for sulfate-free shampoo.

Who's to say sulfates make hair color fade? What type of sulfate are they talking about? There are many different types (and qualities) of sulfates. What is a sulfate anyway?
A sulfate is a cleanser which attracts oil and debris from the scalp and hair and rinses away with water. One sulfate found in high end shampoos like Davines, is Sodium Laureth Sulfate. This sulfate is a primary cleanser and only takes a small amount to be effective. Sodium Laureth Sulfate is also a viscosity builder, a thickening agent for shampoos. Without it, your shampoo would be very watery.

Sulfate-free shampoos use secondary cleansers, not sulfates, and they have to use a higher percentage of these cleansers to clean the sclap. Often times, these secondary cleansers don't remove all of the debris on the hair and scalp, which creates product build up, dull hair and often scalp irritation. Primary and Secondary sulfates are often combined, but the small amount of the sulfate is needed to be effective. The percentage of sulfate and the combination of ALL ingredients in the shampoo is very important. The combination of water, proteins, lipids, emollients, nutrients, vitamins, anti-oxidants, amino acids and a low PH make up a good quality shampoo.

As a hair colorist of 20 years, I am always a bit leary of a company telling me I MUST use THEIR product or my client's hair won't "turn out right." Basically sulfate-free shampoos may not have sulfates but they have something "secondary" which isn't as good in quality and in return has a worse effect on the hair. Remember the popularity of all those FAT FREE cookies and chips from the late 90's? They didn't have "fat" in them but they definitely weren't making us all skinny minnies.